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DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING 



BY 



v 

MADAME TOBEY'S 

Improved Glove-Ming System 



FOR 



DRESS CUTTING. 



ONLY THREE MEASURES. 



DIRECTIONS FOE TAKING MEASURES. 

First. Take the size of the chest, passing the tape measure close 
under the arms above the bust, straight across the back, tight measure. 

Second. Waist measure, which must be tight. 

Third. Get length of waist back of arm down to natural waist. 




DIRECTIONS 

FOR DRAFTING MEDIUM SIZES, 33 TO 36. 



For instance a lady's bust measures 33 inches, waist 25, length of 
waist 8. 

First, mark off 1^ inches for front line, then lay square side of chart on 
hem line, and dot at 33 upper neck ; also at second slat for lower neck, 
and at 33 for shoulder ; the same for arm-size guide. Get shoulder by 
placing F of shoulder rule on upper neck dot, touching lower, and draw 
shoulder line. Then place slat of neck rule on lower neck dot touching 
upper neck dot and draw line. 

To get the arm-size find the chest measure on arm- size, place it on 
shoulder dot. Then draw line from 33 around to second A (for all sizes 
below 33 draw line to first A only). Then place square end of bias rule 
on front hem line touching lower part of arm size and draw chest line. 
Then mark at second A and second B for upper part of biases. 

Get length of waist by placing square end of bias rule on chest line at 
lower part of arm-size and dot at 8 inches length of waist. Then dot f of 
inch up for spring on hip and draw line to arm-size. 

Get waist line by placing square end of bias rule on front hem line 
touching waist dot (8 inches), and draw line straight across. Drop i- inch 
and draw line to get biases ; mark at 2, 4, J, 7 (unless for small sizes, then 
1^- in back bias.) 

To get lower part measure 10 inches down from center of each bias, 
allowing 5 inch each side for seam. Draw line fiom each side of bias 
with straight side of bias rule. 

To get hip bias measure 4 inches straight out from arm-size and dot, 
draw line from upper to lower dot ; to get lower part of hip bias measure 
from center of bias 5 inches down and draw line with curved side of rule. 

Get w^aist measure by placing square ends of rule on hem line dotting 
at 25 lower waist measure ; to this add 8 inches. 



To get remainder of arm-size place second A of arm -size on 4 inch 
dot of arm-size and draft around to medium B ; draw a line from this to 
waist measure dot. To get skirt measure down 10 inches and 4 inches 
out; draw line with curved side of rule. 

Back. 

Mark oft' 1 inch and draw line ; place chart on line same as for front ; 
dot at neck, shoulder and arm-size guide, 33. 

To get shoulder line place B of shoulder on neck dot, touching shoul- 
der dot, and draw line ; then place third slat of arm-size on arm-size guide 
and draw line from shoulder around to fourth slat ; mark out from second 
and fourth slats ; measure straight out from these two points 2\ inches for 
side form ; get length of waist (8 inches) from lower part of arm-size. 

Draw waist line from center back to length of waist-dot, using straight 
side of bias ride, then dot at h inch, at if and at 5, draw line from i inch 
dot up to 10 inches, slanting in to line. Place 7 of bias rule on ^ inch si a ill 
to back line. 

To form center back place side form on 2 inch dot at waist line and 
draft up to second slat of arm-size, then place side form on 5 inch dot and 
draw line up to second upper slat which is 2^ inches beyond the first. 

Get waist measure by placing square end of bias rule on ^ inch dot at 
center back and dot at 25 lower back waist measure ; extend out from 
waist measure 3^ inches ; draw line from fourth slat of arm-size to waist 
dot with curved side of bias rule ; then mark down 10 inches and \\ out 
for lower part ; get lower part of bias the same as front. 

DIRECTIONS FOR SMALL MEDIUMS 28 TO 32. 

Front. 
Drafted the same as large mediums ; for arm-size draft to first A, and 
allow 3A inches in hip bias to get remainder of arm : size from first A 
around to small medium ; 10 inches down and 3^ out ; for skirt, draw line 
with curved side of rule. 

Back. 
Drafted the same as large mediums, excepting center back which 
should be 1 j- inches ; use upper waist measure for front and back. 



DIRECTIONS FOR LARGE SIZES, 37 TO 43. 

Front. 
The same as for large mediums excepting hip bias, which should be 
5 inches, 5 inches down and 10 out for skirt. 

Back. 
Mark down ^ inch from neck dot, and draw shoulder line. 
For back bias allow 3 inches at arm-size and 3^ at waist line. To get 
arm-size place third slat on arm-size guide, touching shoulder dot and 
draw line around to fourth slat ; mark out at first and fourth slat. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CHILDREN'S SIZES. 

Front. 
Let the straight edge of the chart project i inch over the folds, then 
proceed in the usual way ; allow, one inch in front bias and 1^- in hip bias ; 
8 inches down and i\ inches out for skirt. ; use lower arm-size figures. 

3ack 
Place the straight edge of chart on the cloth ; 1 inch back from the 
selvedge, drawing a line there on the cloth (this is for turning under) ; 
then move another inch further from the edge, drawing another line (this 
is for lapping), after which proceed as for small sizes, the 4 inch in cen- 
ter back is omitted. For arm-size mark at second and fourth slats and 
2 J inches for center back. 

Small mediums run from 28 to 32 ; large mediums from 33 to 36 ; 
large sizes from 37 to 44. 

Parties wishing to engage in this business will please address 

MADAME TOBEY, 

27 Gannett Street, AUGUSTA, MAINE, 

ENCLOSING STAMP. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 919 9 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 919 9 



